All You Need to Know About Collagen

1. What Is Collagen?

Collagens are the main structural components of the dermis. They are found in the skin, but also in bones, muscles, tendons, ligaments, blood vessels, and more. Representing around 30% of the proteins in our body, they form a framework of proteins organized into fibers, playing a fundamental role in tissue cohesion and resistance.

We speak of “collagens” because there are around ten varieties, three of which — types I, III and IV — essentially support and structure the skin. Type I collagen is the most abundant in the body (around 90%): it helps structure the skin, bones, tendons and ligaments, and its levels begin to decline from the age of 25. Type III collagen is present in the dermis and in the walls of blood vessels. Type IV collagen plays a role in cell adhesion, migration and differentiation.

Collagen fibers are very dense and give the skin its mechanical properties. They are responsible for texture and help soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles through a tightening effect. Collagens therefore play an important role in the architecture, consistency and evolution of both the dermis and the epidermis.

2. What Happens to Collagen as the Skin Ages?

Skin aging results from a purely internal biological process as well as external factors.

As we grow older — and even more so after menopause — the epidermis tends to become drier, with decreased production of fatty acids and sweat glands, thinning of the hydrolipidic film, altered intercellular communication, slower cell renewal, and reduced metabolic exchanges between the epidermis and the dermis.

In the dermis, aging leads to altered fibroblasts, reduced collagen production — accelerated by sun exposure and smoking — and faster breakdown of existing collagen. As a result, the skin gradually loses its supportive “mattress”: it loses volume, density, elasticity, tone and suppleness, begins to sag and hollow, and wrinkles become increasingly visible. While it is not possible to directly measure the drop in collagen levels throughout the body, these visible signs are logical consequences.

Collagen intake may then help support skin that looks plumper, smoother, more supple and better hydrated. It may also support tissue elasticity and joint flexibility.

To avoid accelerating age-related collagen decline, it is recommended to avoid:

• Smoking

• UV exposure (sun or tanning beds)

• Excessive sugar and refined carbohydrates

Dermatologists and aesthetic doctors may offer those who wish to reduce signs of aging procedures to "erase" wrinkles and fine lines by filling the area with biodegradable injectable substances such as collagen or hyaluronic acid. To date, their use does not appear to raise concerns. Animal-derived collagen requires prior testing to avoid allergic reactions. However, hyaluronic acid fillers can deliver a stronger effect, but may lead to a form of dependence on the tension created, requiring increasingly frequent maintenance.

3. Where Can Collagen Be Found?

Collagen is present in certain foods and dietary supplements. Some cosmetic actives used in skincare can also boost collagen production in the skin.

Collagen is a large molecule made of many smaller molecules — amino acids. As a result, the body cannot absorb it "as is" in its entirety. It must break it down, meaning it "splits" the structure so that the smaller molecules can pass through the intestinal barrier. Once these amino acids are absorbed, the body reassembles them into a protein that may or may not be collagen. And if the newly formed protein is collagen — which is not guaranteed — the body will allocate it to whichever area is most deficient. It is therefore not necessarily directed to the skin: for example, it may be used for bones or tendons if they are lacking.

This is why marketing claims about visible skin benefits from supplements should be taken with nuance. Swallowing a capsule of "beauty collagen" does not automatically mean that collagen will benefit the skin. The body breaks it down and decides how to use the components based on its own needs.

To facilitate digestion and absorption, there is a hydrolyzed collagen form, where the large collagen molecule is already broken down into smaller molecules called collagen peptides. If you wish to try a collagen regimen, hydrolyzed collagen is generally the more effective option.

3.1. Where to Find Collagen in the Diet

The first source is, of course, food. Since collagen is a protein made primarily of amino acids, you can find it in meat (preferably fibrous cuts), eggs, fish, dairy products, bone marrow, a good bone broth, or fish stock.

Absorption and bioavailability for the body — and for the skin — may be improved when collagen-rich foods are consumed alongside vitamins A and C and minerals such as zinc, copper, and iron. Certain plants such as bamboo or nettle may also support collagen synthesis.

Examples of foods containing these vitamins and minerals:

• Vitamin C: strawberries, oranges, broccoli, bell peppers, potatoes, etc.

• Copper: oysters, nuts, seeds, tofu, dark chocolate, etc.

• Zinc: red meat, poultry, chickpeas, whole grains, dairy products, etc.

3.2. Cosmetic Actives That Boost Collagen Production

Exfoliating or keratolytic actives that stimulate cell renewal will also stimulate collagen synthesis. Retinol and vitamin C can boost collagen production in the skin as well; however, frequent use can sensitize and irritate the skin.

This is why actives such as bakuchiol or Alaria Esculenta — both featured in our "Perle Sacrée" Rich Cream — as well as Centella Asiatica or peptides (messengers signaling the need for collagen production) offer an effective, non-irritating alternative.

Highly concentrated in oligopeptides, Chlorella is a key active in our eye contour "Fraîcheur de l’Aube", helping boost collagen fiber synthesis around capillaries, thereby reducing the appearance of dark circles.

3.3. Where Does the Collagen in Dietary Supplements Come From?

Collagen supplements come in various forms — gummies, candies, drinks, powders to dilute, or capsules.

This collagen may be bovine, porcine or marine. Bovine or porcine collagen is extracted from skin, bones and tendons and may be poorly tolerated by individuals allergic to animal proteins. Marine collagen is extracted from fish skin, bones and scales, or even shrimp shells. Marine collagen intake may raise concerns about heavy metals that can accumulate in fish scales, and it may not be recommended for individuals allergic to seafood.

Although collagen is extremely popular today, it is difficult to find studies that confirm the effectiveness of collagen supplements with certainty. Some studies suggest collagen peptides may improve skin hydration levels and elasticity. However, it is important to interpret these studies with caution, as some are funded by players in the supplement industry and are used as sales arguments. Moreover, as explained above, even if a collagen supplement claims to act on a specific area, it cannot be guaranteed — the body will use collagen where it deems it necessary.

In other words, there is no miracle solution for now. For serious joint or skin concerns, it is preferable to rely on treatments with established evidence that a physician can recommend.

Finally, it should be noted that the current collagen craze may also contribute to global deforestation. An NGO report published on Tuesday 8 October highlights the shrinking of the Gran Chaco forest in Paraguay — the second largest forest in South America after the Amazon — due to cattle farming, notably for collagen production. This also impacts Indigenous populations living in the forest.

Our advice: prioritize skincare with actives that boost collagen production, or choose collagen supplements that comply with the EU Deforestation Law. This law is expected to come into force in 2025 and prohibits placing on the European market — or exporting from the European market — products resulting from deforestation or forest degradation, which can lead to local populations being deprived of their land.